The bicycle was first invented in Germany in the early 19th century. 2 centuries later we set out on another bike ride dressed from a century earlier. Let's do the math. If we started out in Old City at 11:00 AM, riding 10 mph, dressed in early 20th century fashion, we should have arrived at our destination at 2:30 PM, 98 years late. I'm just as confused as you are.
I have to say the best part was that I convinced my dad to come to the event and he loved it. He had been growing a mustache for the week and half leading up to the bike ride, and I think it was just the thing, because he took home the award for Dandiest Dandy! The pure joy on his face was the best! Another member of our party, my dear friend, Genell, won the Quaintest Quaintrelle award in this fancy frock which she made herself!:
My Inspiration for this look:I can't mention this great event without talking about John A. Petty II who puts a lot of work into creating wonderful events for vintage enthusiasts in the Philadelphia area. Thank you, John! And we can't forget this year's Grand Marshal, Paul Salter. He, who rode a penny-farthing AND entertained us with his band Parlour Noir. This is a band with which all swing dancers in Philadelphia are familiar. Their lively jazz tunes will make you want to show off your Charleston skills. I love the use of banjo, played by Zak Kneeland, in their music. It's one of my favorite instruments and brings a unique quality to their songs. For more jazz aged events in the Philadelphia area, be sure to check out Deco on the Delaware on August 4th and the fall version of this bike ride, Tweed Ride, on November 10th.
xo, Etta Nouveau
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I learned that in estate homes like Downton, members of the family and their guests often changed their outfits up to 8 times a day! Can you say divas? But I can definately get on board with that. Especially if you have the most stunning wardrobe to choose from, like the Crawley family did. When I was in New York to see Hamilton(!!!), my family and I decided we couldn't pass up going to see Downton: the Exhibition. It was something I was looking forward to for months. But my jaw literally dropped when I saw the front window displays as you can see here: Edwardian Day Wear- The early part of the 20th century was pretty old fashioned. I know that's a weird thing to say. Everything I write about is old fashioned. But Edwardian high society was a time of leisure and luxury and stricter ways of life in a way that seemed separate from the rest of the 20th century. They were ironing newspapers in one of the first scenes on Downton Abbey. The beginning of the century was full of unnecessary practices. Bustles disappeared but dresses remained long with a defined or belted waist to accentuate femininity. The women of Downton did next to nothing for themselves. They had ladies' maids to do it for them. Long line corsets and excessive fabrics meant you couldn't dress yourself. Intricate up-dos were a must so your maid would also style you. Seems pretty great minus the corsets, actually. I know I feel uncomfortable even wearing spanks. You wouldn't be able to breathe, but that's okay, you'd have a maid to do that for you!* *Side note: Corsets were not meant to be pulled tight enough to cut off air flow. I know this. They were only meant to smooth out the figure. Edwardian women were fond of the two piece ensembles, like the dress below. Always the defined waist, long skirts, and hat when outdoors. Hunting & Riding Ensembles- Functionality doesn't mean letting go of style. A smart jacket and tie were considered appropriate for both women and men, as well as tall boots. Lady Mary was all about the latest fashions. Yet, she wears a bustle that harks back to Victorian fashion. Vintage on vintage style! Are you ready for something truly scandalous? Hide your children's eyes because what I'm about to show you may seem indecent. That is, if it's 1913. A woman in harem pants, can you believe it?? The Turkish influenced outfit really turned heads, and it's still turning mine. I would die for that outfit. Or at least endure a sewing needle poke for it. There was plenty more at the exhibit and I'll do a part 2 on the 1920s fashion soon. Until then, hide your ankles. -Marietta I suppose I've fallen in love with Paris. How original. I've been there twice this past year! When your lifelong gal pal sends you a great deal to Paris, you make the quick decision to say "duh" and book it right away. Because whatever else is going on in your life, "Paris is always a good idea" according to Audrey Hepburn, and me. After you book it, you get to start planning. I don't make itineraries ahead of time as a general rule. I like the "come what may, and surprise me" approach. No, I start planning what I'll pack. Because life is a cabaret and I love an excuse to dress up. You don't have to pack a lot, you just have to pack smartly. In fact my friend, who we'll call Ashley, on account of that being her name, and I shared one checked bag in order to budget for champagne. Here's my little guide of what to pack for Paris: -A baret or 2 (yes, people actually wear them there!) -A striped shirt (yes, people actually wear them there!) -Fake fur (A lot of people in real fur, but that's just crazy. Go for fake or vintage if you must.) -Scarves Other Tips: -Don't pack perfume. Go to perfumeries and try out a new expensive one every day. My favorite perfume shop: Buly 1803 -Bring toe warmers to put in your boots since you'll walk miles around the city. -Pack an old bra to throw on Jim Morrison's grave at Père Lachaise Cemetery. Spring and summer must be lovely in Paris. But as I've never been, I can only tell you how to dress for a Parisian winter (LAYERS UPON LAYERS! And boots.) Unfortunately you won't get to see much of your clothing besides your coat in most photos, but you can always change up your hats, scarves, and accessories. When you do go inside, you can peel off your layers to reveals those stripes. Tie a little scarf around your neck to look like a real French stereotype. Be sure to bring something pastel and feminine to wear to Lauderee. Afternoon tea with macaroons is luxurious and actually affordable. It was raining every day except for the day we were leaving, hence the frizzy hair. Still, Paris in the rain is more romantic than just about anywhere on a sunny day. My top sights to see and things to do in Paris: -The Louvre -Saint Chapelle Cathedral -Père Lachaise Cemetery -Climb to the top of the Dome de Sacre at sunset -Buy champagne from a shop and wander around the Eiffel Tower drinking it straight from the bottle. -Explore Montmarte, it's the cutest. -Walk into the Lafayette Galleries to see that amazing ceiling -Splurge on a show at the Moulin Rouge! (and dress to the nines) Here are a mix of photos from both trips:I will leave you with this little tutorial on how to blend in when in France: Au Revoir & Bon Voyage, Marietta It's been a few weeks, or maybe over a month, since the Jazz Age on the Delaware, and I haven't let you in on my little secret (where I got those beach pajama pants) like I said I would. But who's keeping track? That's what happens when it's summer and you don't want to spend it indoors, I suppose. And when you forget about it completely, too. I was honored to be a asked to help judge the fashion contest alongside Martin Murphy of Ransome & Gwynn menswear. Danielle was the winner of the women's contest and her boyfriend, Zack, came in first runner up for the men's. The uniform he's wearing is modeled after the 1927 Philadelphia Athletics home baseball uniform and she is his biggest fan in her imagined fan gear. As for the specifics of my outfit, I wore a pair of wide legged beach pajamas from the website SheIn. Those pants cost me $23 and seemed to be a big hit. Especially with me. Those pants were comfortable! The website isn't selling that exact pair, but there are lot of similar pairs you can purchase. Click Here! That super wide brimmed hat was a $15 Target find and very fun to wear. My shoes were white sandals called Comfortiva Tatianna Soft Spots which I got from Zappos. They were my semi-splurge at $49, but I wear them all of the time.
My blouse and necklace were generously lent from a friend. In exchange for cleaning her bathroom for a month. Big news! I'm so thrilled to be a judge for the womens' fashion at the Jazz Age on the Delaware on July 29th in Philadelphia. Many of you who know me personally probably already know this, as I've been sneaking the information into casual conversation and pretending to be humble about it. "What? Lil' ol' me?" I knew being judgmental would pay off eventually! .....kidding! Get your ticket and more info here: http://www.jazzageonthedelaware.com/ Here are a few of my tips for looking your best for the big even. Plus a few of my personal preferences for dressing from the era that may help you in the judges' tent: I adore the women of the 1920s. They made huge strides for liberating women. They believed they should be equal to men. They wanted to smoke, drink, and have a voice, like men. They even adopted boyish looks. But a short haircut and lack of corset didn't mean they abandoned femininity either. We can thank Coco Chanel for this androgynous "garconne" look. How progressive. Shorter! Lower! Hemlines went up and waistlines went down. But this didn't happen as the clock struck midnight in 1920. I picture that cartoon style. Hemlines suddenly shooting up dramatically and everyone gaping, utterly surprised! In fact, hemlines didn't raise to anywhere near the knee until 1925. But it wasn't common to be above the knee unless you were bathing. Waistlines lowered first from under the bust to between the natural waist and the hips, and then finally down to the hips. The easiest approach? Don't stress out. Try this: Pair a skirt that hits below the knee with a blouse or even a silky or woven sleeveless top UNTUCKED. That blouse should come down over your hips. You can find skirts like this at most thrift stores. Add a long necklace and a parasol if you have them! Round sunglasses weren't just a thing of the '70s either. Hold on to your hat! It's a summertime picnic, so don't forget your hat and parasol! At this point, parasols were meant less for keeping the sun off you, and mostly for fashion. The cloche hat is a famous symbol of the time, but a variety of hats were actually worn. Large brimmed hats almost never go out of vogue. Beaded headbands that sat low on the head were mostly dressier, night time accessories. Instead, opt for a head scarf tied off with a big bow. A few of my personal looks (& my sister whom I style):They say the best things in life are free. Like sunsets, friendship, and diamonds from rich suitors. And don't forget vintage cast offs from your friends. These past few weeks have been extra special, because I could take a break from diving head first into the trashcans lining the street on trash day. The trash came to me! No, not trash, this stuff is AMAZING and I'm so grateful that it was donated to the worthy charity that is my wardrobe. Here's what happened: Ever since I began this blog, people have been looking through boxes in their homes and have had what I assume was this internal dialog: "Hey me, look at all of this useless junk in my house. My grandmother (may she RIP) just HAD to leave me her old crap. ...You know who loves old crap? Marietta!" And that's how I came to have several deliveries of vintage treasures land on my doorstep lately. I've enjoyed receiving these gifts so much. The images above of the blue dress were dropped off by Christa, a friend of my sister's, who has had it in her family for a long time. She said her grandmother's sister made it herself in the 1930s! I'm not sure if it was crocheted or knitted, but it's got this awesome pattern of 3 buttons in a diagonal row all the way down the front. It fits perfectly, with a matching skirt. It was an honor to be gifted it, and it's my new favorite. I'd also like to thank my friend Lauren for hosting a HUGE clothing swap where I snagged some real gems. I showed up just at the end, and I still left with a big pile of clothing, including this awesome 1940's replica dress that I wore to WWII Weekend in Reading, PA. The plus side is that if I ever need a job as a diner waitress, I'll have a dress for that too. I'll write a blog post about how to host your own clothing swap sometime soon. Lastly, I received a big box of vintage patterns from another of my sister's friends, Julia. My sister received patterns AND beer, but who's keeping track? Thank you so very much Julia. She told us anything we didn't want to keep, we could discard. But I can't throw away perfectly good patterns, nor do I need this many. Although I'm thinking of putting some in frames, maybe I will attempt to make a few too. So who wants some? I want to pass on the generosity I received. You too can get things for free! What a bargain! Comment below if you'd like one and I'll choose a couple of people to send them to. 15 Minutes Flapper Hair (if that!) Today I found a hot wave wand that I forgot I had and wondered to myself if it would make fake finger waves faster than making them authentically. Spoiler Alert: the answer is yes, it would, otherwise I wouldn't have written a blog post about it. The hair tool is pretty similar to an 80's or 90's crimping iron for those of us that used them. I have a 7th grade yearbook picture with evidence of my crimper in it. This one makes larger waves with a round shape rather than a zig-zag sawtooth. I got it in a pack with another regular curling wand but have never used it. UNTIL NOW................................... I told you before that I like to cheat, so I turned on my iron and only used it on the top layer of my hair until the top layer of my whole head was wavy. Lining up the waves achieves the best look so that the wave is uniform around the whole head. No brushing out. If I was planning to go out dancing I would have sprayed my head with hairspray and even re-enforced the waves by using hair clamps for a bit. But as I was home all day and hadn't even showered yet, I didn't do that extra step. Instead, I tucked the ends of my hair under and pinned it so that it looked like a shorter bob. If that's too difficult, you could also make a low bun at the nape of your neck. I added some lipstick and dark eyeshadow so you could get a better idea of how the look could come together in less than 15 minutes. Honestly, I'm kicking myself for not trying this sooner. May the force be with you, -Marietta P.S. Have you started the new Netflix show, The Cable Girls yet? I'm in it for the 20's fashion of course. I've been marathoning it all day in the background while I work. The off-price clothing and housewares store, Ross, is known for its historical clothing! Or maybe not so much.
And yet, there I was perusing racks of gaudy sequin rejects, sprinkled intermittently with 50s and 60s inspired clothing. And then I really struck gold. It was like the sea parted and a beam of florescent overhead light displayed for my eyes only: a perfect 1920s dress. And then another one. And I dropped everything and hugged them to my body and never let go. And we lived happily ever after for less than $40. !!! I'm pretty sure they were mother of the bride dresses, but they can do double duty! Will I wear it out with my friends on the weekend? Not likely, unless it's a themed party. But you can bet that at a 20s soiree, you'll be the pineapple's umbrella, or some other nonsensical vintage term. -Marietta I styled the outfits above with a modern headband from Charming Charlie, beaded necklace from H&M, real vintage handbag from a flea market, and character dance t-strap shoes from Amazon. A friend of mine had a birthday recently and told me she wanted to do a 1920's photo shoot to celebrate. After doing some research, I discovered that unfortunately there are not many locations in the Philadelphia area that are from that time period. Whomp whomp. The good news is that my own apartment is pretty historic with these awesome leaded glass windows. I figured they'd be a great background for some artistic photos. But what should we wear under there?? Under wear! Ha, I'll see myself out... So anyway, I headed to Mesh Vintage at 1820 E. Passyunk Ave. in South Philly. They have a copious selection of vintage lingerie. I spent way too long trying on pointy bras and bustiers so small they seem to be made for a 14 year old (I sure hope not). Mesh Vintage is very affordable, each slip came out to about $12 each! What should you look for when putting together vintage lingerie styles? In the 1920's women liberated themselves from restrictive corsets and sought a boyish shape. Flat chested girls rejoice! When choosing lingerie I looked for slips, chemises, negligees, garters, and stockings. In the 1930's the hems lengthened with the cut of the skirts. Everything became smoother, following the curves of the body, like our underwear does today. We also began to see "vests". They were step in one pieces that hugged the body. The 1940's relished a natural look with bras that did not falsify the shape of the breasts. Knickers, or small shorts were common, as well as large panties we'd probably call "granny panties" now. Back then were they called "grandkid panties?" Maybe not. For the 1950's you'll want to look for pointy "bullet" bras, slips, stockings, garters. petticoats, and girdles. The look was unnatural but ultra curvaceous!
After making my purchases, I asked the woman who owns the store how often she seems to get in new stock. Her reply was, "Cross your fingers that more people die!" So now that's all I'm thinking about. I'm wearing dead people's lingerie. It didn't stop me. xo, Marietta |
AuthorMarietta is a swing dancer, artist, & horticulturalist from Philadelphia. Archives
July 2018
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